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Vienna: Vienna Central Cemetery Guided Walking Tour
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Vienna’s Central Cemetery (Zentralfriedhof) is more than just a burial ground: it is a unique parallel world encompassing history, art and nature in 2.5 square kilometres of extraordinary beauty. Inaugurated on 1 November 1874, it is one of the largest cemeteries in the world in terms of the number of people buried there, with over 3 million dead and 330,000 graves. Located in the Simmering district, in Vienna’s 11th district, this extraordinary burial complex has become one of the Austrian capital’s most fascinating tourist attractions.
Its location on the south-eastern outskirts of Vienna should not be misleading: despite its ‘central’ name, the cemetery is in fact about 20 minutes away from the city centre. However, this apparent remoteness is more than compensated for by the richness of its graves of honour, which house the remains of some of history’s greatest composers, and its Art Nouveau architecture that makes it an open-air museum of extraordinary value.
The cemetery is not only a place of remembrance, but also a green oasis much loved by the Viennese for walks, jogs and moments of reflection. Its multi-faith nature, with sections dedicated to different religions, and the presence of wildlife including roe deer, squirrels, badgers and kestrels, make it a unique experience that blends the sacred and the profane, art and nature.
The Cemetery Church dedicated to St Charles Borromeo is one of the most beautiful Art Nouveau churches in Vienna. Built between 1908 and 1910 and designed by architect Max Hegele, it is also known as the Luegerkirche after the mayor of Vienna who initiated its construction.
The church houses the tomb of former mayor Karl Lueger in the crypt under the high altar. Its Art Nouveau architecture is a masterpiece of its time, with its imposing dome dominating the entire cemetery and lending solemnity to the setting.
In front of the church is the Presidents’ Crypt (Präsidentengruft), where the presidents of the Austrian Republic rest. This symbolic place represents the democratic continuity of modern Austria.
The musicians’ graves are arranged in a circle in the so-called ‘graves of honour’ section (Ehrengräber). In 1888, the remains of Ludwig van Beethoven and Franz Schubert were moved here, along with Johannes Brahms and Strauss.
Ludwig van Beethoven rests in section 32A, grave 29, with an impressive monument that attracts thousands of visitors every year. Franz Schubert (tomb 28) and Johannes Brahms (tomb 26) lie in close proximity. Johann Strauss father (grave 15) and son (grave 27) are buried next to the composer Josef Lanner (grave 16).
There is also a memorial to Mozart (grave 55), although the Salzburg composer rests at the St. Marx Cemetery. Arnold Schönberg rests in group 32c, grave 21a, as a representative of modern music.
One of the most visited graves is that of the rock star Falco (died 1998), located in section 40. Udo Jürgens (died 2014) rests in section 33G with a symbolic white piano on his grave.
The grave of Johann Strauss II features iconic symbols: a bat for the operetta ‘Die Fledermaus’ and a couple dancing the waltz. Also noteworthy is the grave of Hollywood icon Hedy Lamarr (died 2000) with a 3D portrait.
The cemetery is divided into sections for different religions: Catholic, Protestant, Orthodox, Islamic and two Jewish cemeteries. In group 5b of the Old Jewish section, Arthur Schnitzler and Friedrich Torberg are buried.
The oldest Jewish cemetery, established in 1863, was devastated during Kristallnacht, but about 60,000 graves are still intact. The second Jewish cemetery, built in 1917, is still in use today.
Since 2005 there is also Europe’s first Buddhist cemetery, centred around a stupa and consecrated by a Tibetan monk.
Allow at least 2-3 hours for a complete visit, including the tombs of honour and the church. History and architecture enthusiasts can easily spend a whole day.
The Central Cemetery observes the following opening hours:
From May to August, every Thursday the cemetery remains open until 20:00. On 1 November (All Saints’ Day) access with private vehicles is prohibited due to the high number of visitors.
Admission to the cemetery is free of charge. However, for a more complete visit of the Central Cemetery, we recommend that you take part in a guided tour.
The most characteristic way to reach the cemetery is by tram 71, secretly nicknamed the ‘Cemetery Express’. Tram 71 departs from several central stops such as Schottentor, Ring/Volkstheater, Oper/Karlsplatz or Schwarzenbergplatz.
Alternatives include:
The main entrance is Tor 2 (Door 2) at Simmeringer Hauptstraße 234. Here you will find the information point with maps, shop, audio guides, Café Oberlaa, burial museum and e-bike rental.
The cemetery has ample parking and allows access with private cars (for a fee) every day except 1 November.
Due to the immense size of the cemetery, there is a shuttle bus service (line 106) that runs through the area every half hour during opening hours. The service is free of charge and makes several stops like a regular bus.
Electric bicycles can be hired at the main entrance to comfortably explore the 2.5 square kilometres of the complex. Cycling is permitted and popular with visitors.
The Burial Museum is located in the basement of Morgue 2 and offers a fascinating insight into Viennese funerary culture. It exhibits over 250 original objects and photographic material, including an original “Fourgon” (carriage for transporting the dead) from around 1900.
The decision to build the Central Cemetery arose in 1863, when it became clear that industrial growth would lead Vienna to reach 4 million inhabitants by the end of the 20th century. The five existing municipal cemeteries were becoming insufficient for a rapidly expanding city, capital of the vast Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Already in 1784, by decree of Emperor Joseph II, parish cemeteries within the city had been closed for reasons of hygiene and space, creating five new Catholic cemeteries outside the city walls. However, the unstoppable population growth made an even more ambitious solution necessary.
The choice of the Simmering district was no accident: the town planners carefully assessed the terrain, which favoured faster decomposition of the bodies, and the area had not yet been reached by city expansion. The project was entrusted to the Frankfurt-based landscape architects Karl Jonas Mylius and Alfred Friedrich Bluntschli, who won the competition with their design ‘per angusta ad augusta’ (from difficulty to greatness).
The inauguration took place quietly on the morning of 31 October 1874, with a ceremony kept to a minimum by Mayor Baron Cajetan von Felder and Cardinal Joseph Othmar Rauscher to avoid public controversy. The first to be buried was Jacob Zelzer, followed by 15 others who died that same day.
Initially, the cemetery was not very popular with the Viennese because of the distance from the centre, despite the direct railway connection. It was not until 1910, with the construction of the St. Charles Borromeo Church and the establishment of the graves of honour from 1881, that the place began to become a tourist attraction.
During Nazi rule, the two Jewish cemeteries were devastated and almost totally destroyed, with only about 60,000 graves remaining intact. In 1945, during the Battle of Vienna, the cemetery suffered severe damage: most of the buildings were destroyed and the dome of the St. Charles Borromeo church burned down.
Between 1950 and 1990, a careful restoration programme restored the cemetery to its former glory, allowing it to be used again as early as the 1950s. Today it is the second largest cemetery in Europe after Hamburg, with 330,000 corpses.
The Central Cemetery was immortalised in the song ‘Es lebe der Zentralfriedhof’ (Long Live the Central Cemetery) by Wolfgang Ambros in 1975, on the occasion of the centenary of its opening. It has also been the location for famous films, including Carol Reed’s classic ‘The Third Man’.
There is a joking Viennese saying: ‘The Central Cemetery is half the size of Zurich, but twice as funny’, which testifies to the special affection the Viennese have for this place.
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