Spittelberg

As many as six districts separate Spittelberg from the Innere Stadt, the historic heart of Vienna, but this district can boast of being the city’s second largest pedestrian zone after the centre.

Often overlooked by tourists, it is one of the city’s most picturesque areas: a quaint labyrinth of streets, squares and cobbled alleyways just a stone’s throw from the prestigious MuseumsQuartier that has the air of a small village, with elegant 19th-century Biedermeier-style buildings; pretty little restaurants and traditional taverns hide in the district’s narrow streets and courtyards. A sort of village within a city, not so far from the centre but free of traffic and noise, where you can still breathe in the romantic atmosphere of bygone days.

The history of Spittelberg is as colourful as it is fascinating. Once an infamous district frequented by artisans, workers, street musicians and prostitutes, it was considered Vienna’s red light district in the 19th century. Legend has it that even Emperor Joseph II, son of Maria Theresa, frequented the area’s brothels incognito, while publicly opposing them. This bohemian atmosphere later attracted artists and intellectuals, gradually transforming Spittelberg into a cultural quarter.

Today, Spittelberg is one of Vienna’s trendiest areas for going out in the evening, with a mixed clientele of professionals, students and food lovers. In summer, the atmosphere in the district is cheerful and jovial, with Viennese people hanging out in the open-air gardens (Schanigärten in Viennese dialect), while in winter the district hosts one of the city’s most atmospheric Christmas markets, with handicraft stalls winding through the romantic, illuminated alleys.

Things to do in Spittelberg

The Spittelberg district unfolds in a labyrinth of narrow streets bordered mainly by Breite Gasse, Sigmundsgasse, Spittelberggasse and Gutenberggasse, creating an intimate and cosy pedestrian area reminiscent of an Alpine village rather than a metropolis. The 19th-century Biedermeier-style buildings, painted in delicate shades of yellow, pink and green, give the district an elegant but never pompous character.

Biedermeier architecture, characteristic of the period between 1815 and 1848, is characterised by its decorative restraint and harmonious proportions, in stark contrast to the more sumptuous imperial styles in other parts of Vienna. The façades feature regular windows, simple cornices and occasional floral decorations reflecting the bourgeois taste of the time. Many buildings conceal inner courtyards (Innenhöfe) that have been transformed into charming gardens where people dine al fresco in summer.

Particularly impressive is the Theater am Spittelberg, a small, recently renovated theatre that hosts contemporary performances, and the Filmhaus am Spittelberg, an art-house cinema that shows art-house and quality films. The presence of these cultural institutions underlines the artistic identity of the district, which continues to attract a creative community of artists, designers and intellectuals.

Spittelberg Christmas Market

From November to December, Spittelberg is transformed into one of Vienna’s most atmospheric Christmas markets, attracting visitors looking for a more intimate and bohemian alternative to the big markets in the centre. Craft stalls wind their way through the narrow streets of the district, illuminated by thousands of lights that create a fairy-tale atmosphere.

Unlike the more touristy markets, the one in Spittelberg maintains an authentic and artistic character, with vendors offering mainly handmade handicrafts: jewellery, ceramics, carved wooden objects, scented candles and unique Christmas decorations. The atmosphere is especially romantic in the evenings, when the courtyards fill with visitors sipping mulled wine (Glühwein) and sampling specialities such as roasted chestnuts, Lebkuchen (gingerbread) and Hungarian Langos.

The market mainly occupies Spittelberggasse and adjacent streets, creating a circular route that allows one to explore the entire district. Restaurants and cafés remain open with extended hours during the Christmas period, offering a warm refuge between strolls. We recommend visiting the market on weekdays to avoid the weekend crowds, when the atmosphere is quieter and you can better appreciate the district’s charm.

Where to eat and drink in Spittelberg

Spittelberg is renowned for its excellent gastronomy, ranging from traditional Austrian cuisine to vegetarian and international options. The Witwe Bolte is the oldest restaurant in the district, founded in the 18th century, and offers authentic Viennese dishes in a setting steeped in history. The menu includes classics such as Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz and apple strudel, with a rich selection of vegetarian options.

The Zu ebener Erde und erster Stock (literally ‘On the ground floor and first floor’) has a name that is a tongue twister even for the Viennese, but is famous for its cosy atmosphere and Austrian home cooking. Bohème offers a more modern interpretation of Viennese classics in an elegant setting with an indoor garden. For those looking for upscale vegetarian cuisine, Tian Bistro is the ideal choice, with creative dishes prepared with organic and local ingredients.

The Amerlingbeisl is particularly popular with young people for its charming Biedermeier courtyard, one of the most beautiful in Vienna, where in summer you can dine under the trees in a magical atmosphere. The Collina am Berg focuses on sustainable cuisine using products from local hunting and organic farming. For a more informal experience, Herz & Seele combines the atmosphere of a cocktail bar with traditional Austrian dishes, also offering a vegan version of the classic Brettljause (charcuterie and cheese board).

How to get to Spittelberg

Spittelberg is located in Vienna’s 7th district (Neubau), easily accessible from the city centre. The nearest underground station is Volkstheater on the U2 and U3 lines, from which the district is about 3-5 minutes’ walk away. Leaving the underground, walk along Museumstraße in the direction of the MuseumsQuartier and reach Spittelberg via Burggasse.

Alternatively, from the MuseumsQuartier station on the U2 line you can go directly to the cultural complex and from there walk north to reach the first streets of Spittelberg in 2 minutes. Those coming from the city centre can take tram 49, which stops at Volkstheater/Burgring, or stroll through Mariahilfer Straße, Vienna’s main shopping street, and turn north to Spittelberggasse.

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